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VM95: Limpid, green-hued straw. A complex, assertively perfumed bouquet evokes Anjou pear, peach nectar, orange zest and vanilla, along with suggestions of sea salt and pungent flowers. A smoky mineral quality builds in the glass, energizing densely packed Meyer lemon, orchard and pit fruit and chamomile flavors that are braced by an undercurrent of juicy acidity. Clings impressively on the strikingly long, mineral-driven finish, which features suggestions of smoky lees and ripe citrus fruits. 40% new oak.