Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese 2007

WA94: Picked out very selectively in the middle of harvest over Thomas Haag’s extensive acreage of old vines in this site, his 2007 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule continues the limeade theme and buoyancy of the “regular” Auslese, here adding both riper melon fruit and brighter citricity. Ginger, white pepper, and lime zest add a sense of invigorating to the finish and help check the wine’s sweetness. Here, too, are transparency to saline, stony mineral dimensions and sheer verve rare in a honeyed, super-ripe gold capsule Auslese. This opulent beauty will probably be slow to evolve, and I foresee a good three decades of cellar satisfaction