Decanter 93 points: If you want to understand why people are so besotted with Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey's white wines, buy yourself a bottle of his entry point St-Aubin, which comes from a single parcel aged between 20 and 50 years. Matured in 25% new wood, it's as crisp as a freshly laundered white shirt, with cool precision and a lick of limestone zip.