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VM95: The 2017 Chardonnay Estate is quite deep and almost phenolic in its sense of structure. This a rare Chardonnay that absolutely demands cellaring. Sage, almond, dried pear, chalk, mint, lemon confit and crushed rocks develop with time in the glass, but the 2017 is a wine that will need at least a few years in bottle to start drinking well. Readers should be in no rush.