JD94: This terroir always delivers a wild, opulent, gamey style of wine, and the 2017 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert doesn’t disappoint. Loads of chocolaty black fruits, ground pepper, truffle, and smoked game, as well as a hint of black olives, emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a rocking texture, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It’s a classic example of this wine and terroir. Drink it over the coming 15 years or so.

JS92: This has a very attractive feel in 2017. Sanguine aromas of chocolate, iron and dark berries. There’s some real richness and a plush feel on the palate with a fine, elongated tannin drive. Super sleek. Great density and focus here. Will age very well. Try from 2024.