Morlet Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier 2009

VM95: The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier, from Knights Valley, is powerful, rich and imposing. A huge, muscular wine, the 2009 is endowed with deep, resonant layers of dark red cherries, plums, cloves and crushed rocks. The Knights Valley tannins are present, but masterfully integrated. Smoke, incense, tobacco and scorched earth inform the dark, brooding finish. The 2009 is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot, 2% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.

WA95: The 2009 Mon Chevalier is the firmest and freshest of the 2009s. Mocha, espresso, French oak, licorice, plums and black cherries are some of the notes that emerge from this vibrant beautifully articulated wine. The 2009 Mon Chevalier possesses striking balance and purity. Menthol, licorice and tar are nicely layered into the finish. In 2009 the blend is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot, 2% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot.

Luc and Jodie Morlet’s 2010s are off the charts. The 2010s have huge structure, but the fruit is so ripe and voluptuous in these wines that the perception of tannin is often imperceptible. The 2009s, on the other hand, are made from grapes that weren’t as physiologically ripe, so the tannins remain firm and in need of time in bottle to soften. As good as the Morlet range is, the most exciting wine appears to be the Morlet Estate, from a vineyard in St. Helena the Morlets purchased a few years ago.