Lail Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Georgia 2012

WA94: More controversial, but to me one of a handful of profound Sauvignon Blancs made in California, is the 2012 Sauvignon Blanc Georgia. This is 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Totem Vineyard in Yountville. It is fermented in new French oak and aged there for 18 months prior to bottling. Robin Lail and her consultant Philippe Melka only produced about 300 cases, but it is possibly the most singular and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc made in Northern California, with all due respect to Terry Leighton at Kalin who also can turn out a trick or two making something well beyond the norm. This wine, which I believe comes from other pirated cuttings from a classified-growth château in Pessac-Léognan, has notes of honeysuckle, lemon oil, a hint of tangerine, brioche and a medium to full-bodied, stunningly rich, complex mouthfeel. The oak is pushed way to the background, but the wine is much bigger, richer and more penetrating than your typical Sauvignon Blanc.