JS95: Cooked-apple, peach and pear aromas. Stone and chalk undertones. Full body. Dense and layered. Fantastic finish of dried citrus skin, salt and fruit. Beautiful now, but better in a year or two. Second wine of Domaine de Chevalier.

JD90: Both whites from this benchmark estate outside of Leognan are terrific. The 2017 L'Esprit De Chevalier Blanc, which was first made in 1986 (it was originally called Batard Chevalier), offers a fresh, medium-bodied, beautifully balanced style on the palate as well as classy honeyed minerality, lime and citrus fruit, and plenty of floral notes. It’s already drinking nicely, yet I suspect it will also evolve gracefully for 4-6 years.