VM92-95: Bright, full yellow. Brooding aromas of peach oil, iodine, smoke and stone. Seriously concentrated and much more closed today than the Bienvenue; shows a sappy, saline, rocky character and yet the overall palate impression is quite smooth. Stony finishing minerality leaves the salivary glands quivering.

WA89-91: The 2013 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, light estuarine-scented bouquet that takes time to unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry, quite pointed in the mouth, but it needs a little more tension and detail on the slightly anonymous finish (compared to the Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet for example.) Let's see if this gains something in bottle.