JS97: The boldest of the G.D. Vajra crus. The nose has very intense, rich and ripe darker cherries with a savory, sanguine edge. The palate has layer upon layer of rich dark berries and concentrated, quite rich tannins that carry plenty of brambly dark-cherry flavor. So keenly defined, too. Impressive weight. Try from 2024.

VM96: The 2016 Barolo Ravera is tough as nails today, but it has striking inner sweetness and remarkable persistence. Even so, readers will have to exercise a great deal of patience, as the 2016 is not likely to offer much in the way of pleasure for a number of years. Bright red cherry, mint, white pepper, blood orange and dried flowers give the 2016 brilliant top notes to match its finely sculpted feel. Veins of acidy and tannin add razor-sharp precision throughout. I can't wait to taste this in another few years' time.