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WA90: The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta di Castelgiocondo is a massive, explosive wine that would pair perfectly next to a thick cut of Tuscan T-bone steak. Brooding concentration is followed by charred earth, black licorice and smoked bacon fat. It all makes sense given the broad shoulders and substantial texture of the wine. The mouthfeel is less imposing, putting a higher priority on balance and focus. This bottle will continue to evolve in your cellar, but could also be popped now with two or three hours of aeration.