Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots 2010

VM96: The 2010 Meursault Rougeots from Coche-Dury was simply off the blooming charts. In fact, I will go so far as to suggest that it may be the best white village cru Burgundy I have ever encountered. My appreciation is reflected in my score. Limpid silver in hue with flecks of gold, it is blessed with a riveting bouquet, its signature reduction deftly not occluding the terroir expression in any way. The mineralite and tension were a joy to behold, and they translated across to the palate, which boasts razor-sharp delineation, absolutely perfect acidity and a nervosite on the finish that is dazzling. Part of that stems from the brilliance of the vintage, part from an exceptional vineyard and part from the fact that in this wizard's hands, Rougeots operates at top premier cru level. It was not cheap, but by my calculations it was still approximately one-third what you would pay from a merchant.

WA92: The 2010 Meursault Rougeots is a bit rounder and more inviting than the Chevalieres at this stage. Here the fruit blossoms nicely to fill out the wine’s broad frame. There are a richness and creaminess in the Rougeots that make it surprisingly sumptuous and ample at this stage. At the same time, there is plenty of power waiting to emerge. If I were going to open a Coche 2010 early, I would probably start with the Rougeots. Anticipated maturity: 2016+.