Champagne Jacques Selosse Substance Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru [Pre-arrival]
WA100: Since awarding the July 2019 disgorgement of Selosse's emblematic NV Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Substance a three-digit score, readers won't be surprised to learn that I've drunk a dozen bottles—all in the interest of due diligence, of course. Happily, the wine continues to show extraordinarily well, bursting from the glass with aromas of honeyed pears, buttered toast, candied peel, fenugreek and almond paste. Full-bodied, textural and enveloping, it's vinous, concentrated and sapid, marrying to remarkable effect the unique patina imparted by Selosse's distinctive winemaking practices with the powerful yet incisive profile that defines Avize. This is a brilliant Champagne, and my only regret is that I doubt I'll have any bottles left five years from now.