Castello di Ama L'Apparita 2017

Castello di Ama sits 12 miles northeast of Siena in the hills of Gaiole. This is the heart of Chianti Classico, a bucolic rolling landscape of woods, vineyards and olive groves. The property is owned and operated by the husband and wife team of Marco Pallanti and Lorenza Sebasti. Over the last quarter century they have replanted all of the vineyards and upgraded all of the winemaking capabilities to make this one of Tuscany’s showcase producers.

VM96+: The 2017 L'Apparita, Ama's 100% Merlot, is silky, polished and exceptionally beautiful. In 2017, L'Apparita is restrained and elegant more than it is powerful. I have seen L'Apparita blossom with a few years in bottle. I imagine it will be the case here too. Today, L'Apparita is decidedly nuanced and elegant.

WA96: I am immediately struck by the power and concentration of the Castello di Ama 2017 L'Apparita. This is an exuberant and gregarious expression of Merlot that has absorbed every last sunbeam of the hot summer season. On the nose, the wine shows beautiful fullness and generosity that spills richly across the senses. Blackberry syrup and cherry liqueur are followed by smoke, tar, toast and sweet chewing tobacco. You taste that extra density in a similar manner, and the rich concentration of the fruit has consequently shaped a more apparent tannin and a little snap of astringency on the close. My sample bottle does not show a reading of the wine's alcoholic content, but you feel some heat as well. This edition of L'Apparita is extra dark, succulent and firm. When the wine has been given another five to ten years of cellar age, then I'd suggest guinea fowl or one of those delicious roasted pigeon dishes you find in Tuscany.