Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero Malleolus de Valderramiro 2009

WA93: The 2009 Malleolus de Valderramiro comes from 85-year-old vines and is matured for 18 months in new French and American oak. It received a eulogy from my predecessor in barrel, and although my own appreciation is more tempered, I still regard it as a stupendous wine. The oak is seamlessly integrated on the stylish nose that offers hints of mocha and dark chocolate to complement the brassy bold black fruit – creme de cassis and blueberry jam. The palate is full-bodied and just a little cloying on the entry. It is decadent, structured and voluminous, a bold intense wine with mouth-lacquering luscious, almost viscous fruit on the finish with fresh dates and cassis. It is uncompromisingly primal and unyielding at the moment and deserves several years in bottle. Drink 2018-2030.