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Eric Genau
 
November 25, 2013 | Eric Genau

Wine Legends at Tocqueville

When in New York City, I often organize wine dinners at Tocqueville. A fixture in Union Square, Tocqueville remains one of New York's most acclaimed restaurants, along with its Michelin-starred sister, 15 East, just a few doors down. I can't say enought about the hospitality here, led by master Sommelier Roger Dagorn, who assists me with all of our wine pairings and often helps to create a tasting menu around the special wines we are opening. My last visit was a night of wine legends with friends and colleagues. Here are some of the highlights.

I was blown away by the 1990 Comte de Vogüe Musigny, which may have been the biggest powerhouse red Burgundy I have ever tasted. Explosive doesn't do this justice, yet the wine also possessed an elegance that is difficult to describe. Musigny is often described as an iron fist in a velvet glove, and that is on target with this bottle. Comte de Vogüe produces some of the most iconic wines in Burgundy, with history tracing back to 1450. Today the estate is led by its 20th generation. The Musigny vineyard, planted on iron and limestone soils, within the village of Chambolle-Musigny, is among the finest Pinot Noir sites in the world, and it showed here. Tocqueville's duck sausage with foie gras was ethereal, presenting the perfect complement to both the power and grace of this wine. Roger hit a home run with this pairing!

The most fun we had at the table was comparing 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion with Pétrus from the same year. Both wines received strong praise and 100 point ratings from RP, and both wines threw me for a loop. I was expecting power and fruit from La Mission, and didn't really get much of either. Instead, it was Pétrus that took over from the start, showing more fruit and body than La Mission, the latter coming acorss as surprisingly under-ripe. As for the Pétrus, who says Merlot is all about finesse? At 100% Merlot, this proves otherwise. 

The menu at the right shows us starting with a bottle of Ramonet C-M from 2010, but we made a last minute swap in favor of Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet 2010. As much as I enjoy Ramonet, we traded up here. This is a masterpiece that I would like to revisit in five years. It has so much going on, but the aromas and nuances aren't really developed yet. Still, it comes across as so elegant and long even today. The dish, sea urchin and angel hair carbonara, was another home run. Roger chose the fish for its briny texture, and that really helped to bring out different textures in the wine. 

This was a pretty special evening, and all I could do the next morning was stay put at the Andaz Fifth Avenue, which I often call home while in New York. The lobby lounge serves coffee and is a great place to get some work done. I wasn't up for much more than that after a long night at Tocqueville. 

We fly for wine! Travel around the world with us on flickr.com

 

Time Posted: Nov 25, 2013 at 1:13 PM Permalink to Wine Legends at Tocqueville Permalink
Traci Lee
 
March 3, 2012 | Traci Lee

The Big Cheesy

Last Saturday I attended The Big Cheesy, an event to discover and vote on the best artisan grilled cheese in New York City.   Seven vendors prepared their version of the much-loved grilled sandwich, in hopes to win this year's title.  Upon arrival, I received a ping pong ball and my choice of a local brew from the event's sponsor, Six Point Brewery.  Don't get excited, no beer pong here, the ball equals one vote, gathered into a large glass container by each vendor, and the one with the most, wins.

First up, Casellula's Griddled Fondue Sandwich with Pickled Pepper Relish, homemade garlic-nutmeg butter spread on Rye bread, with a combination of shredded cheese - 2 parts Scharfer Marx, 1 part Emmenthaler, and 1 part Gruyere, grilled until golden brown and topped with Pickled Pepper Relish.  This combination of cheese, named for its perfect fondue-ability, is shredded for easy melting, and to blend the hearty flavors of each cheese. Try this at home!  Sweet butter, spicy relish, great bread, mountain cheese - I'm having a hard time holding on to my ping pong ball... (email me for the butter and relish recipes!)

Next up, the quirky diner, Big Daddy'shas created Grilled Macaroni and Cheese with Bacon.  In true Big Daddy's style, they have topped their sandwich with a traditional mac and cheese, threw on some bacon and have it held together with an oversize toothpick - and then they handed me a Jell-O shot.  Woah.  Moving on...

The Melt Shop, a new midtown restaurant dedicated to grilled cheese, serving not 1, but 3 varieties to taste:  #1 - Sharp Cheddar with 12-hour braised pulled pork, McClure's pickels, and homemade bbq sauce on sourdough, not a grilled cheese, but a killer sandwich.  #2 - Fontina and Goat Cheese with roasted wild mushrooms, and parsley pesto on sourdough.  Delicious, but not better Casellula.  #3 - Blue and Cheddar Cheese, cranberry pepper jam, Neuske's bacon on sourdough, good, but I can't really taste the blue cheese, and if we've had a cheese conversation, you probably know how much I love blue cheese.  

Tartinery, a fantastic spot on Mulberry Street.  Known for their French-style sandwiches, so I'm not surprised they have an open-faced creation: Croque Monsieru - Bechamel sauce, a fried egg, ham and Gruyere cheese piled on Poilane bread, with sprinkles of chopped scallions.  I believe Tartinery makes one of the best breads available in NYC, and the ham is mouth-wateringly delicious - awesome!  But again, it's not really a grilled cheese, so I'm taking my ping pong and going to...

Lucy's Whey, an American cheese shop located in East Hampton and NYC's Chelsea Market.  Lucy's sandwich appeared simple and elegant, and that is exactly how it tasted.  This grilled cheese is perfect, Prairie Breeze Cheddar with fig jam and olive oil, all in complete balance.  This is the kind of grilled cheese I crave, and would love to have at home (and pair with an equally elegant Oregon Pinot Noir, such as Maysara Asha)!  I have a couple more to taste, but I'm certain nothing will top this sandwich. 

I make my way to our friends at Murray's Cheese, and appreciate the "ohh, make sure you get that one" tip, from a Cheesemonger.  The Atomic Bomb -  Braised Short Ribs, Taleggio, Caramelized onions, Piri Piri, fire roasted Jalapeno peppers, McClure's spicy pickle relish, and arugula on Pullman bread.  Wow, this is a phenominal sandwich, and I will add this to my must-go-back-for -lunch list, but I'm having a hard time calling this a grilled cheese, it's a BBQ specialty! 

Last one - Little Muensterwhich has the longest line of them all.  Intriguing.  While waiting, the vendor passed out tastes of delicious tomato soup and Pinot Grigio, which was a nice touch, but I was so full, I could barely enjoy the accoutrements.  Gruyere, Taleggio, Fontina, Membrillo (quince paste), and Prosciutto on organic bread, this is a solid grilled cheese, but the flavors don't pop out as much as I had hoped.  However, their menu looks go enough to make a trip to the restaurant ASAP!

It's a tough decision, but my ping pong is definitely going to Lucy's Whey - simplicity has won my vote!  After an afternoon of incredible flavors, I realize a perfect grilled cheese is up to your imagination.   And just like wine, or all types of food, for that matter, your sandwich should fit your taste, and your ocassion - whether that means breakfast, lunch, or dinner.  Suit your sandwich to your tastes, and you'll never go wrong.  

If you have a favorite grilled cheese recipe or restaurant favorite, please post it in the comment section below!  

Time Posted: Mar 3, 2012 at 10:09 PM Permalink to The Big Cheesy Permalink Comments for The Big Cheesy Comments (1)