City Wine Merchants

Expressive Syrah & Braised Short Ribs

Chateau Maris has an outstanding portfolio and we recently had the pleasure of tasting through the line up with Jacques Herivou, co-owner and US representative of Chateau Maris.  The wines are powerful, balanced and food friendly, and this is one of many pairings that could work well.  

Chateau Maris was founded over twenty years ago when Robert Eden migrated to southern France, with a vision to allow wines to be a reflection of the land where the grapes were grown. He believes that ‘wine is grown and not made’ and has taken this to the next level of integrity by becoming certified organic and biodynamic.  Eden fell in love with and potential of the Minervois and, in particular, the little-known village of La Livinière. The first in Languedoc to be granted permission to put the village name on the label, alongside AOC Minervois. Like much of Languedoc Roussillon; the Minervois has a history of making wine for some 1000 years, however it is only recently becoming known as a source of high quality wines.

For me, the stand-out wine was Chateau Maris Syrah La Touge Minervois Cru La Liviniere 2009, which definitely over-performs for its price point (only $15.29 with our mix-and-match discount).  It is 85% Syrah, finished with 15% Grenache, which provides a very deep red, almost purple hue.  La Touge's aromas are big, with layers of ripe black fruits and spicy.  On the palate, this wine is complex, yet smooth, with blackcurrants, elderberries paired with spicy bursts of pepper and herbs. 

La Touge is ideal for a big meal and eventhough we have had quite a mild winter, there is nothing better than warming up on a cold February night with a hearty food and wine pairing.  This braised beef short rib recipe is rustic, full of flavor, and pairs really well with the blackberry and spice in Maris' La Touge.  Enjoy this combination with whipped potatoes, buttered egg noodles, or a simple white risotto.

Braised Beef Short Ribs
Serves 6

Ingredients: 
8lbs. Bone in Beef Short Ribs
1 large Onion – rough chop
1 Leek – rough chop
4 Carrots – rough chop
1 ounce packet of fresh Thyme
1 Head of Garlic cut in half with skin on. 
1 Bottle of Dry Red Wine (try Terra Andina Carmenere, only $8.99 and full of flavor!)
1 Quart Beef Stock

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees Farenheit.

Begin by dredging the beef in flour and season liberally with salt and pepper. In batches, sear the beef, in a heavy bottomed Dutch Oven, without overcrowding, in neutral oil.  Set aside.

Reduce heat to medium and add Onions, cook until beginning to caramelize and then add Leeks, Carrots, and Garlic. Cook until all have softened.

Add Thyme, and the reserved Beef.

Add the wine and stock until just covering the beef. Bring to boil, cover, and place in oven for 4 hours.

Remove the beef from the liquid. Strain braising liquid through a fine sieve. Skim any fat from the top of the braising liquid.

Return the liquid to the pan, bring to boil and reduce until the sauce thickens, and then add the beef back to the liquid.  Check for seasoning & enjoy! 

Jan 31, 2012 at 8:00 AM

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Surprising Flavor from a Perfect Pairing

I'm very excited about my first wine and cheese pairing of 2012, because both components are complex and flavorful: suberb on their own and marry together in a super surprising (and delicious) way - which is the #1 goal when creating a perfect pairing! 

2010 Pighin Pinot Grigio Collio is a beautiful golden color and very aromatic with hints of hazelnut, white fruit and subtle spice.  The palate is delicate, but expressive with layers of flavor, literally each sip brings out something new - if you don't think of enjoying white wine with food, give this a try!  It is rich and earthy, medium to full-bodied and has a hint of peach, a ton of minerality and a textured mouth feel that is a very different from many Americanized, flat/light Pinot Gris you may have tasted and said "yuck".  Azienda Fratelli Pighin is a magnificently beautiful family-owned estate located in the prestigious D.O.C Collio zone of Grave-del-Friuli, in northeast Italy, and they remain a benchmark producer for Pinot Grigio. 

After enjoying a few sips of Pighin, I pick up a piece of very stinky Grayson, a gooey, golden, washed-rind cheese from Virginia.  Meadow Creek's Grayson looks like Tallegio and smells like feet, which is great, considering this cheese is produced by the Feete family.  This cheese smells dirty and straight from the barn, but tastes mild and amazing.  It is creamy, with a thick paste that coats your mouth and I immediate think of using it in mac + cheese.  The flavor is deep and hearty with onions and meaty beef on the palate, it could be a meal.  The taste tames the scent and although it does smells like feet, Grayson will knock your socks off.

Once I have covered all of my tastebuds with the cheese, I take a hearty sip of the wine.  It tastes like banana! In a good way.  Thankfully I'm tasting with a number of others, confirming the banana burst and full-bodied tropical fruit that I find within this wine and cheese combination.  The hazelnut flavor in the Pinot Grigio is also amplified when paired with the cheese and the meaty character of the cheese is humbled by the layers of fruit in the wine. 

While both the Pighin and the Grayson are outstanding on their own, this pairing truly brings out the best of each other, while creating a new flavor together.  That being said, a perfect pairing like this is able to work because 3 tasting principles are at work:  the weight -  each component is similar, medium to full bodied, with big aromatics, that greatly play into the what you experience while tasting.  The texture - the wine and cheese "feel" similar in your mouth, they coat your tongue with creamy, smooth layers.  Finally, the flavor - the wine is hearty and earthy, which is a great clue that the taste will be enhanced with food.  The cheese is tastes like a meal itself, and of course, meals are always better with wine - I can't wait for you to try this combination!  When you do, please post your thoughts here or share with our Facebook community!

Jan 19, 2012 at 5:00 AM

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Comfort Food: A Top 2009 Rhone Value with Mushroom Risotto

If you’ve read our 2009 Rhone vintage report, you already know that it is a year that produced some brilliant wines. One of the top values that we’ve tasted from this vintage is Domaine les Grands Bois Cotes du Rhone ‘Cuvee les Trois Soeurs’.

Domaine les Grands Bois has deep roots in the Rhone Valley. It has been a family operated grower since 1929, and saw its first estate bottling in 1997. They make a number of different wines, including Les Trois Soeurs, from 60+ year old vines.

The blend is 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 20% Carignan. It shows initial flavors of dark fig and plum, with beautiful aromas of crushed black berry and spice. Herbs and earth round out the finish with just a touch of anise. Well textured tannins and some good acidity make this an excellent wine to be paired with foods, including lamb, veal, mushrooms, and game.

Fall is that time of the year when we all start craving comfort foods and one of my all-time favorite comfort foods is risotto. It is a generally easy dish to make, as long as you can pay attention to the pot.

Risotto Recipe:
8oz Crimini Mushrooms
8oz Shiitake Mushrooms
½ Spanish Onion
1 ½ C of Arborio Rice
1 C Parmesan Cheese
4-6 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1qt of mushroom stock (can be bought)

Begin by cooking the mushrooms in a mixture of butter and oil on medium heat, season well with salt and pepper, do not overcrowd the pan, sauté them until browned in three to four batches. Set aside for later. Mince the onion and add some more oil and add to the pan. Cook until the onion has just begun to caramelize. Deglaze the pan with the stock and empty the pan into another pot and keep hot.

Add some more oil to the pan and add the Rice, cook for 1 min in the oil and ladle in 1 cup of Stock. Continue to add the stock 1 cup at a time until the rice is just done. Remove from the heat and add the reserved cooked mushrooms, the parmesan; and salt and pepper to taste, and finish with some butter. The rice should be fluid, if needed add additional stock.

Oct 6, 2011 at 8:33 AM

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Contrasting Flavors: A Bright Italian Red with a Washed Rind Pecorino

I love the combination of two opposite flavors that are enjoyable alone, but taste better together.  Over the weekend, I found an incredible Italian pair: Pecorino Ginepro, a semi-hard sheep's milk cheese paired with Quattro Mani Barbera, a juicy red wine from Piedmont.

Quattro Mani Barbera Piemonte 2010 is a red wine from the Italian grape variety Barbera.  This grape is known for its deep color, low tannins and high acidity level and this bottle appropriately captures each traditional quality.  On the nose, this wine has an aroma of sweet plum and light spice, and is youthful, fruit-forward and extremely approachable on the palate with a bright acidity, plum, and blackberry flavors, and a soft finish.

The producer, Quattro Mani, translates to "four hands", and consists of a few celebrity-status Italian winemakers, each with a strong tie to the land and a comittment to substainable farming practices.  Collectively, they produce Barbera, Montepulciano, Tocai, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Bianco.  Quattro Mani Barbera is produced by the skilled winemaker Danilo Droco who was described as "One of the Great Names of Piedmontese Winemaking" by Robert Parker earlier this year. 

Pecorino Ginepro, a truly beautiful cheese from the Italian province of Emilia-Romagna, is tangy and zippy, with a dark, woody rind.  It is a semi-hard sheep's milk cheese is aged 4-6 months and washed in balsamic vinegar and soaked with crushed juniper berries (ginepro is Italian for juniper).  The powerful rind on this cheese is delicious, which in itself, is a great compliment to the softer, salty heart of this Pecorino. 

Paired with Quattro Mani Barbera, the Balsamic flavor of the rind is intensified and the red fruit of the young wine partners with the cheese to soften the acidity, and together, the wine tastes as though it has experienced a few years in the bottle.  The salty cheese's juniper flavor is mouthwatering, and does not overbear the wine's best qualities, creating a very smooth flavor profile. Absolutely outstanding.

Sep 8, 2011 at 5:49 AM

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Simple & Delicious: Pinot Noir Paired with Pork Tenderloin

2009 Evening Land Pinot Noir – Blue Label

One of my favorite wine regions at the moment is Oregon's Willamette Valley. The Pinot Noirs coming out of Oregon are some of the best I have ever tasted.  They tend to be more Burgundian in style, while retaining some of the new world nuances.

Tonight’s selection is the 2009 Evening Land Pinot Noir Blue Label. Evening Land has very strong ties with Burgundy, and that influence is expressed in the wine. Not only do they make wines in Burgundy, but they also utilize the consulting services of Dominique Lafon, a forerunner of modern Burgundian viticulturists. Mark Tarlov, the proprietor, began his career in the movie industry.  While visiting Burgundy he enticed Lafon in supporting his production.  The Blue Label is now sourced exclusively from Seven Springs Vineyard, and it is poured at top restaurants like The Modern, Bouchon, Craft, and Gotham. 

 To be able to find such a quality made Pinot Noir at this price point is extremely rare. Josh Reynolds of Stephen Tanzar awarded the wine 90 points stating: “Ruby-red. Lively, complex aromas of raspberry, cherry, black tea and cola. Suave and silky, with good intensity and depth to its pure red fruit and spice flavors. Shows power without any undue weight and an attractive sappy quality. Finishes with silky, fine-grained tannins. It is quite refined for the price and drinks very well now.”

I am going to pair the wine with Pork Tenderloin. A very versatile meat choice and it works really wonderfully with the Pinot. I begin by trimming the silver skin on the butt end of the tenderloin; try not to trim too much, leave as much fat as possible, it will melt while cooking. I cut the tenderloin in half so I can control the cooking temperature; the thinner end cooks much quicker and can dry out. Coat the tenderloin with olive oil and fresh thyme, season with salt and pepper. Place the larger portion in a pre-heated skillet (cast iron preferably) sear on all sides then follow the same with the smaller portion; throw in 2-3 whole garlic cloves (peal on but smashed) and a tablespoon of butter; allow to brown and baste the tenderloin; place in a preheated oven at 425 for about 8 minutes to finish. Remove from the pan and allow the meat to rest on cutting board. For the sauce: return the pan to the stove and add some white wine to the pan to deglaze, make sure to scrape all the brown bits into the sauce.

Reduce down until all alcohol has been removed, remove from heat and stir in 1-2 tablespoons
of cold unsalted butter. Sauce the plate, slice the pork, place on top of the sauce, pour yourself
a glass of Pinot, and enjoy!

Aug 29, 2011 at 1:08 AM

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Small, Biodynamic Les Baux-de-Provence is a Hidden Gem

Last night I opened a bottle of Mas de Gourgonnier 2009 from Les Baux-de-Provence, a small village within Provence, in the south of France.  As I tasted this delicious wine, I wondered about its home and decided to do a little research.  First, I learned the village got its name from the aluminium ore Bauxite, which was first discovered there in 1821 by geologist Pierre Berthier.

But before I get too far into the region, let me tell you about this wine...
Mas de Gourgonnier 2009 offers sweet plum on the nose, with a hint of juniper and is a beautiful shade of raspberry red. Blackberry jumps out on the first sip, and lavender (typical of Provence wines) is introduced as the wine opens up.  It is really well balanced, with a fresh acidity, a medium bodied structure, and a long finish.

This wine is a blend of 48% Grenache, 21% Cinsault, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Mourvèdre, and you can really taste each of the varietal components. The winemakers, Luc and Lucienne Cartier, have been farming in this picturesque countryside for years, and in addition to grapes, they produce olives, fruits and vegetables.  It would pair wonderfully with a French goat cheese, such as Valencay, smoky cured meats and a variety of dishes, including the peppered grilled chicken that I prepared for dinner. The pepper flavor brought out a more herbaceous quality in the wine, that made this pairing very desirable.  Eric (our Wine Director) has always said that this is one of his all-time favorite under-$20 wines.  I understand why.  This is the kind of everyday table wine that keeps you reaching for the next sip.  Even better, Mas de Gourgonnier 2009 is only $13.59 with our mix-and-match discount!

About the Region
Located in the heart of Provence, in southeast of France, Les Baux-de-Provence gained AOC status in 1995 and is located within the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOC. This area has become a popular tourist destination, near the well-known cities of Arles, Avignon and Nimes. The village is home to many gourmet restaurants and charming hotels.

The climate is very hot, but thankfully the vineyards are centered on the village hilltop, providing perfect exposure to the cooling and drying mistral winds. Les Baux-de-Provence is the first French AOC to require all vineyards to farm biodynamically, which has become part of the terrior’s identity. Red wine accounts for 80% of the regions wine production and the most popular grapes include: Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon often used, but can only account for 20% of a blend.

The Baux Valley is also olive-growing land and is considered the most beautiful in all of Provence. Three olive products are entitled to AOC designation – olive oil, cracked oils and black olives.

Wine Producers of Les Baux de Provence
Château d’Estoublon
Domaine Olivier d’Auge
Mas de la Dame
Mas Sainte Berthe
Château Dalmeran
Domaine du Pas de l’Aigle
Domaine de Lauzières
L’Affectif
Mas de Gourgonnier
Domaine de la Vallongue
Domaine de Terres Blanches
Château Romanin
Domaine Hauvette
Domaine Guilbert
Mas Carlin

Aug 10, 2011 at 4:00 AM

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Beaujolais with NY Strip Steak & Sea Scallops

Wines from Beaujolais, where the Gamay Noir grape varietal is grown, are some of the finest and most underappreciated quality wines on the market today. One of our favorites is the 2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées Beaujolais L’Ancen Vielles Vignes .

The owner and wine maker is Jean-Paul Brun and he has worked hard to make his wines some of the best and most consistent in the region. The domain is situated in the south of Beaujolais, in the village of Charnay-en-Beaujolais, and he also produces "Cru" wines from different classified villages including Fleurie (the 2009 Brun Fleurie is also outstanding). He practices 100% organic farming, and uses only native yeasts in the fermentation process. The wine is sourced from some of the oldest vines on the lot, where there are fewer grapes per vine, resulting in a more concentrated and robust flavor.

2009 was an outstanding vintage in Beaujolais; David Schildknecht of the Wine Advocate awarded this wine 90 points.  Coming in at $16.99 per bottle, it is an outstanding value for a wine of this quality. It is deep red in color, contains refined soft tannins, a beautiful bouquet of bright red fruit, and spice. Delicious!

Beaujolais is one of the more versatile and forgiving wines to accompany food, and I recommend exploring different pairings with a variety of foods. It is an interchangeable selection with many traditionally white wine pairings, but it can hold its own with richer and heavier foods.

It was a perfect selection to complement tonight’s dual meal, surf and turf of Prime dry aged NY strip steak with a spice rubbed grilled sea scallop. The richness of the beef was cut with the soft tannins and the spice, and the fruit forwardness of the wine softened the spice rub on the scallop.

With a Prime Dry Aged Strip steak I don’t like to fuss much with it. I want the rich flavor of the quality beef to shine through without being covered up by herbs or spices.  Coat with extra virgin olive oil, fleur de sel (French grey sea salt), and coarse fresh cracked pepper, and grill to one’s liking.

For the scallops, I also coat with extra virgin olive oil and a spice blend (recipe below) or there are some quality pre-made rubs from Penzys. Make sure the grill is hot and well-oiled before placing the scallops atop. They only take about 3-4 minutes per side. 

Scallop Spice Rub:
1 tbsp. Hungarian Paprika
1 tsp. Onion Powder
1 tsp. Cumin powder
½ tsp. Cayenne powder
½ tsp. Garlic powder
½ tsp. Fennel Seed
1 tsp. Kosher Salt
1 tsp. Fresh Ground Pepper

Aug 3, 2011 at 4:49 PM

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What is Cheddar?

Over the years, I have been asked an uncountable number of quesions about Cheddar.   Unfortunately, the question is rarely about the country of origin, milk type or even a wine that pairs best.  The most asked question is usually presented in a soft voice that suggests I’m-embarrassed-to-ask, but... “Is cheddar cool?” The answer is always the same, YES! Cheddar is super cool, but it is widely misunderstood. 

The concept of Cheddar is often based on the yellow/orange, grocery store stuff we were introduced to as kids, but true English Cheddar has been produced since at least the 12th century. The name “Cheddar Cheese” does not have a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) in the European Union, however Cheddar produced from local milk within four counties of South West England may use the PDO name "West Country Farmhouse Cheddar.”  Basically, this means the cheese was never legally defined, resulting in an unbearable number of undeserving cheeses using the name on their label. This has created confusion for genuine and delicious British Farmhouse Cheddar, and often an un-cool personality in the minds cheese shoppers.

The Real Stuff
This cheese originates from the village named Cheddar, located in Somerset, in South West England and is produced from local raw milk, using the cheese making method of “cheddaring,” which is cutting the curds into blocks and strategically stacking, by-hand, to eliminate whey. After large format wheels are created, the slabs are bandaged in a cloth wrap, and then aged for at least 11 months (often much longer) in high temperatures and humidity.  This creates a firm texture, that literally melts in your mouth and typically yields a hint of sharpness, as well as a mild and elegant flavor.  Cheddar is often crumbly, and may have a slight crunch on the tongue due to large crystals of calcium lactate formed during the aging process.  Personally, I call the crystals cheese diamonds, as they are found in perfectly aged cheeses!

Below are two of my favoite Cheddars, and a few pairing wines. Email me when you try the wines, the cheeses or the pairings, I would love to hear your feedback! traci@citywinemerchant.com

Keen’s Cheddar – The Moorhayes family have been producing this award winning Cheddar in Somerset, England since 1899 using raw milk and the same recipe for generations. This cheese is distributed in the US through Neal’s Dairy Yard, I point this out, as this name is often listed on menus! Keen’s Cheddar has a slight sweetness, along with a complex nutty flavor.

Wine Pairing: Sherman & Hookers Shebang Red North Coast, from California’s North Coast. Sherman & Hooker is a project by Morgan Twain-Peterson, the son of Ravenswood founder Joel Peterson. He also produces wine under the cult-ish Bedrock Cellars label. It is a blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Sangiovese, 5% Zinfandel, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Marsanne/ Roussanne/Grenache Blanc. This wine is full of red fruit flavors, that pair incredibly well with Cheddar, and it's a great value!

Quicke's Cheddar – Mrs. Mary Quicke manages a farm of 340 grass-fed cows in Devon, England and produces raw milk wheels of firm, creamy, yet sharp cheddar.  Order this cheese online at Murray's Cheese!

Wine Pairing: Chateau Helene Corbieres Penelope Rouge Tradition 2009 is a fresh, aromatic red blend of 40% Syrah 30% Grenache, and 30% Carignan from the Languedoc Roussillon in France. This wine is organically produced and aged in concrete vats, and offers dried fruit and earth on the nose, while the palate is full and ripe with plum, raspberry, spice and smoke. The acidity is a perfect balance to the creamy texture of Quicke’s Cheddar.  With our mix-and-match discount, this wine is a steal at $11.89!

Aug 1, 2011 at 1:02 PM

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White Burgundy and Little Neck Clams

Almost halfway through summer, while I love grilling, one starts to tire slightly from grilled food all of the time. I have no desire to turn on the stove for too long on a hot summer day, so steamed littleneck clams fits the bill.  Add a cold bottle of white wine and you have a recipe for a perfect mid-summer dinner.  I recently selected the 2009 JJ Vincent Bourgogne Blanc. "JJ" Bourgogne Blanc is a tribute to Jean Jacques Vincent who has managed the family domaine of Chateau Fuisse for the past 40 years. The wine is 100% Chardonnay, with a fresh ripe nose, and lemony citrus notes.  This sees some oak, and it is balanced, well structured and delicious. This Bourgogne Blanc is an extremely great value and quality in this price level.  It is made by Antoine Vincent, the same winemaker who makes the legendary Pouilly-Fuisse wines of Chateau Fuisse - of which Robert Parker says "There is no domaine in all of southern Burgundy that has more of a legendary reputation than this extraordinary estate."

Steamed Littleneck Clams:
50 Littleneck clams
4 minced shallots
2 lb.’s Garlicky sausage (Italian sausage or chorizo could substitute)
1 Cup Dry white wine
2 tsp. Saffron
3 Diced Tomatoes
Chopped chives to garnish (optional)
Baguette grilled with olive oil and salt and pepper

This is a quick simple dish, and the stove doesn’t have to be on too long in the hot weather. Start by searing the sausage whole in olive oil, remove from pan and cut on the bias and reserve. Add the minced shallots, diced tomatoes, white wine, saffron and sliced sausage to the pan, allow the alcohol to cook off then add the clams. Cover with a lid until the clams have opened. Pour into a large bowl garnish with the chives, and serve with the grilled bread for dipping in the broth.

Jul 18, 2011 at 1:51 PM

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Picnic Worthy Wine

Spending a romantic afternoon dining outdoors is one of my favorite summer activities, and having the right wine, food and cheese is always on top of my priority list.  I think living in New York City has forced me to perfect my picnic-ablity - meaning packing just the right amount of outdoor accessories, proper disposable dining supplies and a smart amount of food and drink, without carrying a kitchen-sized beach bag into the park.

When I first tasted Château Roquefort Côtes De Provence Rosé Corail 2010, I mentally began rearranging my perfectly-packed-picnic bag to fit 2 bottles, instead of one. This crisp, refreshing Rosé is aromatic, fruit-forward and lively, but also displays an elegant softness with sweet hints strawberry and raspberry. As I swished the wine over my palate, I imagined rays of sunshine glistening off the crystal clear water, as I sipped this perfectly pink wine, aboard a sailboat in Provence…ok, back to reality…

Over the weekend, I opened up a bottle of Corail to enjoy in the warm weather, after stopping by Murray's Cheese for Crottin de Chavignol, a classic French chevre. At only $5.99 a nugget, I expected a nice, enjoyable pairing, but was given much more!  This little French round is only a bit larger than a marshmallow; with a similar pillow-like rind and a lushious, gooey inside. Big flavors of salt and lemon tang are packed in this small, goat’s milk cheese, with a rustic, yet mild flavored white rind. A sweet and salty characteristic is drawn out when the two are paired together – the salt from the cheese becomes a perfect partner for the sweet berry flavors of the Corail (which is an equally perfect picnic value at $14.44 with our 6 bottle mix and match discount!)  – what a sensational pairing!

Jun 6, 2011 at 8:42 AM

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